Maelstrom on the coast

If there's a colour that defines Mumbai, it's grey. Glimpse it from the air in the daytime and you'll see a grey coastline and a grey ocean. As you touch down, you'll note the concrete and chrome towers, the shanty towns, the creeks and the roads - all grey.

But don't be fooled into believing the grey signifies dullness. On the contrary, the monochrome is the perfect foil to the city's colourful character - from the delicate pink flamingoes that visit the Sewri mud flats in the first half of the year to the fuchsia of a Bollywood actress's garb. The sandstone colonial buildings to the blazing red flame-of-the-forest blooms. The haphazard, honking traffic to the precision of commuter trains and lunch-delivering dabbawallahs. The plushest of hotels to the most rickety of hovels. From the cosmopolitan cacophony of dialects to the rich notes of a single musical instrument at the National Centre for Performing Arts. The fanfare of the Ganesha festival to the soft prayers in the Parsi fire temples. From hungry leopards spilling out of the Borivali National Park to much-loved stray dogs. From a slow-cooked biryani to a speedily crafted vada pao. From the single bulbs of the tiny fishing boats that go out to sea in the wee hours to the flashing strobelights of the nightclubs.

To savour every part of the city, you'd have to live in Mumbai for many lifetimes. But to get a glimpse into its soul, you only need a few days and an open mind.

The months of April and May are hot and very humid in Mumbai. Temperatures go up to 38°C, and it is best to be dressed in cottons. Bring comfortable shoes, a hat or cap, and high SPF sunscreen. Drink lots of water if you plan to visit the city in these months.

Mumbai Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport is one of the country's two main hubs for both international and domestic flights with great connectivity to almost any part of the world.

Within the city, the black-and-yellow cabs are the most convenient option. You need to merely flag them down and specify the destination, though brace for a few refusals. In suburban Mumbai, the rickshaw is your best bet. Insist on paying by the meter always. The taxi fare from Colaba (where many hotels and street shops are) to Churchgate (where the train station, Wankhede stadium and Marine Drive are) should not exceed Rs 60. Check approximate distances, time taken to traverse them, and the likely fare with your hotel desk before you set out.

App-based cab services like Uber and Ola have had the run of the city recently and they're plentiful and cheap and will travel even the shortest distances.

Local trains go north from two hub stations (the Western line from Churchgate and the Central and Harbour lines from Mumbai CST). Ticket booking is simple, although queues may be long. Avoid travelling by train during peak hours (north to south between 7.30-11 am and the other way between 5-9pm) as they can get extremely crowded.

Buses are convenient and comfortable and ply over a large area. Enquire at your hotel or the local bus depot - the nearest ones would be the one at Electric House and the Colaba Bus Depot - for specific bus routes.

High-end
The Oberoi (from Rs 16250) and The Trident (from Rs 10000) next to it boast the most stunning ocean views. The legendary Taj Mahal Palace and Tower (from Rs 12,000) is a Mumbai institution. The InterContinental (from Rs 10,000) and Marine Plaza (from Rs 8750) also enjoy a superb sea-facing location and are just five minutes' walk from the stadium.

Mid-level
Mumbai's best boutique hotel Abode (from Rs 4000) is a short cab ride away from the stadium and in the heart of happening Colaba. Chateau Windsor (from Rs 5250) does basic accommodation with a great location close to the stadium. There's also the Sea Green Hotel on Marine Drive (from Rs 4500).

Budget
Bentley's Hotel (from Rs 3000) in touristy Colaba is basic but clean. The YMCA, also in Colaba (from Rs 2400) is a good option, but needs to be booked at least a month or two in advance.

Like all of India's larger cities, Mumbai is a smorgasbord of tastes and cuisines, whatever your budget may be.

High-end
Ziya at the Oberoi has some authentic North-West frontier and Indian food. If you're seeking superlative European-American fare, visit the standalone Indigo, or Ellipsis in Colaba. The best Thai is at the Thai Pavilion at the Taj President in Cuffe Parade.

Mid-level
In the Kala Ghoda precinct, just north of Colaba, Khyber is good for north Indian fare, especially meat. Trishna, a stone's throw away, is a prime seafood destination, especially rated for its crab. Great cafe-style food and craft beers are Woodside Inn's speciality, while Pizza by the Bay serves fresh pizzas and lots of nostalgia at an art deco sea-side pizzeria a short stroll away from Wankhede.

Budget
Italian at Café Churchill, snacks and desserts at Theobroma, authentic Keralite food at Deluxe and Taste of Kerala and vada-pav at Aram (opposite CST station and next to Capitol cinema) are highly recommended.

High-end
Rooftop spaces with a view that offer a sophisticated drink are Aer at the Four Seasons and Asilo, while the noisy, younger parties are at Luna Nudo, both at the St Regis. Tote at the race course is a great place for drinks and dinner.

Mid-level
Hard Rock Café has live music Thursdays and Sundays. Shiro is a sophisticated lounge, except on Fridays when it grooves to retro music. Social, with three branches between Colaba and Lower Parel, is where all the cool kids hang and where drinks are very reasonable.

Budget
Bayview (Tel 022-22821089) is great for beer and wine on an open terrace overlooking the Gateway of India. The iconic Café Mondegar has rude waiters, an easy vibe and a CD jukebox. Gokul, a Colaba institution is a true-blue dive where hipsters hang with hardcore drinkers

Take an evening walk down the 4km promenade on Marine Drive. It's a great chance for people-watching, enjoying the cool breeze, eating roasted peanuts bought from a street vendor and watching the sun set. Avoid this on a weekend, though, unless you want to be in a sea of people.

Shop for gifts on Colaba Causeway: trendy junk jewellery, cheap clothes and shoes, faux pashminas, sequinned bags, "I Love Mumbai" t-shirts, "antique" brass gramophones, even replicas of the Taj Mahal. You just might land up finding a good deal for yourself on Levi's jeans or Adidas gear too. Alternatively, max out your credit card at High Street Phoenix in Lower Parel.

Explore the beautiful heritage precincts of the city on foot with an expert guide who can point out the landmarks and their history. Details here.

Wrangle an invite to one of the old club gymkhanas. Or check if your club offers affiliate membership. Bombay Gymkhana, Willingdon Club, Turf Club, Yacht Club, United Services Club, the Cricket Club of India - they all still have old-world charm that dates back to the days of the Raj, superb food and drink, and possibly an interesting sporting legend or two slouched in a wicker chair somewhere.

Play a game of cricket at the Oval. Or the Cross Maidan. All you need is your own team. Or just charm your way into joining one of the dozens that play on these grounds every Sunday.

Try some of Mumbai's street food especially the pani-puri (stuffed crisp balls served with mint water) and the pav-bhaji (bread and a veggie mash). Have the perfect pani-puri made with mineral water at Kailash Parbat in Colaba. Or a butter-drenched pav-bhaji at Sardar in Tardeo.